India -

ajhastan was once the land of the maharajas, the famous princes who ruled over the land and people in northern India. They were fabulously rich, often with their own private armies, and even when Britain colonised much of the country they remained semi-independent. Only when India escaped British rule for good on January 26, 1948 did their days of power and wealth come to an abrupt end. But their palaces were still intact. So their owners threw some of them open to the public, transforming them into museums and luxury hotels to generate some much-needed rupees – meaning visitors today can live like a maharajah, if only for a week or two.

Jaipur is the best place to start your journey. Travellers, who normally arrive from Delhi or Mumbai, find the 'Pink City' a fresh and relaxing contrast to the fascinating and frightening crowds of these larger cities. The pink and orange colours come from the sand stone used to build the city. Plus it was painted in pink by the Maharaja Ram Singh II 130 years ago for the visit of the future British King Edward VII, the then Prince of Wales.

Even though India is the land of contrast always balanced between its peaceful religions and its glowing nationalism, Jaipur is like wondering into an ancient Indian tale. The city is surrounded by ramparts pierced with doors – Chandpol, Ajmeri and Sanganeri being its principal ones. Dromedaries and camels, elephants and cows, goats and horses walk amble through its streets. And several big bazaars brighten up the city, filled with fruits and vegetables, spices, nuts, flowers, textiles, gems and colourful pigments, with acid-drop silk samples hung everywhere along the market streets. But its atmosphere is really set by its palaces and maharajas. When the palaces were built, mainly in the 16th and 17th centuries, Maharajas were at the height of their powers, receiving money and food from their people in exchange for protection. Now they are not allowed to receive money as they used to, they open up their homes to visitors instead.

The City Palace is not a hotel but it certainly deserves a visit. Still partially inhabited by the Maharaja of Jaipur, it is one of the highlights of the city. Eleven kilometres from Jaipur is another old fortress built by a maharajah in the 16th Century, the Amber Palace. And nearby is the Rambagh Palace, built by the queen of Jaipur in 1835, as a royal retreat, and since providing a bed for everyone from Prince Charles to Lord Mountbatten and Omar Sharif. I chose the Narain Niwas Palace as my abode in Jaipur and my personal experience was a tale. Not so much for the feeling of washing in an entirely marble bathroom, nor sleeping in a canopy bed under soaring high ceilings, or even for the little bat I watched flitting above the lit swimming pool at dusk. No, my Indian tale started the very first day. I arrived late in the evening and didn't have a chance to take in the trophies and old photographs ornamenting the spacious living room where dinner was served. So, early in the morning, I got up and carefully looked at all the black and white photographs displayed on the wall – one of the late Nepalese Royal family, another of General de Gaulle, and beside it one of a former US President. And in each one the same man was standing next to these personalities. At varying ages but always with the same impeccable look and groomed beard, the same perfectly clean clothes and proud look.

And, as I passed these photographs and headed towards the terrace, the man was there, drinking his morning mango juice, and reading the Herald Tribune. He was the Maharaja of Jaipur. I greeted him politely and sat down a few tables away. It did not take long before he expressed a curiosity about my stay. It was early morning and by chance no one else was there, so he kindly invited me to share his table, and we talked. After half an hour he had to go. But during my stay every morning, at the same time, we would meet and discuss our experiences of the world, from politics to tourism, as well as our mutual and personal passions for collections of all kind. He was, like so many other Indians I met on my trip, a very kind, interested, wise and polite man.

A few hours drive from Jaipur, is Orchha; a village where the most serene and unaltered maharaja's palace awaits the rare and lucky travellers who make the journey there. It is on the road between Jaipur and Khajuraho and makes an excellent stop off. The nostalgic beauty of Orchha lies in its poignant history. Like nowhere else, and perfectly described by an early traveller, its "grandeur has been captured in stone and frozen in time", an amazing rich legacy to the ages. The medieval city, its palaces and temples, retain most of their original perfection, from when they were built in the early 1500s.

The Fort houses three beautiful palaces: Jehangir, Raj and Rai Proveen Mahal. Graceful cenotaphs crown the Jehangir Mahal, offering spectacular views of the soaring temples. By the river next to the village, the Sunden Mahal is a small palace almost in ruins today, but none of its charms are taken away by its falling walls. It's a must-see. And to crown your visit to Orchha, indulge yourself in a stay at the Sheesh Mahal, a palace now converted into a hotel. It is one of the only palaces not converted to appeal to international visitors, but remains instead in its original state, just as when its previous maharaja lived inside. Another option for those who want the blend of old world charm but with modern amenities, is the Orchha's resort, built of red sandstone and marble, on the bank of the river Betwa. Beyond the opulent and incredible life maharajas have experienced through out the centuries, India above all leads to reflections about tales and time. And living like a maharaja – an experience that every traveller to India should experience at least once – gives you a taste of the beautiful sprawl of history, land and people that is the essence of India.